Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Florida Keys

Key West
 Key West
11/10/10 - 11/11/10
Leaving  the Southern Everglades National Park we headed north then back south along US 
Cigarette offshore ocean racers
A1A for Key Largo and points south with our evntual destination Key West the southern most point of the Unted States.  As we passed through Key Largo the causeways   and bridges began to take over and separated islands were connected together.  US A1A in several long sections ran alongside the original A1A  with its concrete arches spanning from concrete abutments long abandoned and now rusting away.  I felt its forms to be more attractive that the newer  one upon which we drove.  For almost 90 miles the two lane road bridges crossed the waters with the Gulf of Mexico to the West and the Atlantic on the East.  At about 33 miles from Key West we stopped on Big Pine Key and the      
Key West Waterfront
Fishing Lodge resort at the southern base of Spanish Waters Bridge.  The resort was under new ownership, as so many seem to claim to be, so everything looked fresly painted.  Drives were of locking crushed coral and palm trees shaded most spots and the ocean touched two sides of the resort.  The two days were warm with sweet breezes.  The first morning we drove 10 minutes to Bahia Honda State Park Beaches.  We got there early before the gates even opened up at 8:00AM.  Cruising the park we opted for Sand Spur Beach.   Clean white sands and turquoise shallow waters under a robin’s egg blue sky.  We had the beach to ourself but as the hours went along the place started to fill up.  Despite          
Sand Spur Beach, Bahia Honda St. Park The Keys
the increase in numbers it was still mellow.  Four hours at the beach is plenty for sun and to regain the energy baked out of us we air conditiond it for a couple of hours back at the Airstream.  After some of the languor wore off we were ready to head in to Key West 33 miles down the causeway.
Key West can best be summed up in five words - money, money, money,  homes and boats.  Jo and I wandered down to the south western marina and things were happening.  It turned out to be the weekend of offshore ocean racing and festivities.  These are cigarette class boats of tremendous horsepower,  sleekness, noise, flash and money.  Boats with rigs to pull them start in the million dollar range and costs jump upwards quickly for maintenance and the lifestyles that go with them.   That much money attracted hoards of the “beautiful and wannabes.”  The docks were jumping, music blaring and money walking about everywhere.  Cigarette boats rumbled at idle while being groomed like the thoroughbreds they are.
JoAnn and I however caught sight of a catamaran with nice exterior lines tied up in the center of all the commotion and finagled ourselves onboard for an inspection with a broker and the boat's owner.  It was informative and we learned much about the Manta class catamarans.  It was a little too cramped and dark for me but the cockpit was well laid out with all control lines coming aft.  
 Sunset was fast approaching and the customary viewing of the setting sun from the southern most point of the United States was gathering people to the waterfront court.  Festivities were in full swing with all the usual hawkers and fire twirlers along with art and food booths.  Sailboats cruised by 15’ off the pier at a steady pace and sailing craft were silhouetted in dusky red on the horizon as lights winked on from mall lamplights and sailboats.
With a few shots of bracing rum it was time to walk the main drag of Duval Street and the side alleys of rock an roll bars.  This was party time on an intense scale.  I sure I would not want to live in this town but Key West was jammed tonight and it was only a Thursday night but the sailors with white tights and spit shined patent shoes added to the festive naughtiness.  Larger older homes on the strip were converted to restaurants with darkened seating out doors amongst the noise of the streets and sidewalks on both sides filled with us gawkers.  After walking up one side and down the other and listening to a terrific rock duet of brothers, one of which played both an electric base and the drums at the same time !  We decided to head back up to Big Pine Key at a slow and careful pace.  We made it back  in one piece with our 60 year old bones intact.
The next morning we looked forward to a  warm water swim in the roof top pool.  I even got to wash the Airstream and polish one exterior section of its aluminum skin.  Then  its off again Northward  to Florida City to catch the famous East coast to West coast connector of Hwy 41, the 'Tamiami Trail."  
Hwy 41 runs close to the top of the everglades and comprises more of the wet grasslands 
Midway Camp, Hwy. 41, Big  Cypress National Park
where Seminoles and Mikasuki Indians lived for centuries and still do.  Its the land of airboats and hunters.  We lucked out as it just got dark when we came across the Midway Campground in Big Cypress National Preserve.  We had been camping in National Parks but were not sure if there were any campgounds in the National Wildlife Preserves.  There are.  And this one was small but brand new with power only hook ups.  You never know which utilities they will provide but it seems in Florida providing power over water and sewer seems to be more common.  Perhaps its because of the air conditioning requirements that need at least 30 amps ?
Anyway it was a welcome respite in the nick of time and it was new and trim to boot.  We backed right in and stayed hitched up working as fast as we could to hook up and stabilize as the skeets were swarming.  We are going to try to sleep with the windows closed to avoid the no se ums from coming in through the screens.  Not sure how that will work.  We shall see.   zzzzzzzzzzzeeeeeee !!!!  slap !!!  scratch......slap !      I do believe JoAnn can’t get out of this state fast enough.  We of color fortunately have thicker skin so its not quite as bad.   Still, we can be eaten up given the right swarm....slap! ... scratch!.....  aghhh !


Big Cypress National Preserve



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