Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Adjusting ( late publish from Roatan 2012 event)

Another birthday has come and gone. 66 years as an earthling. It was nice in this far away land of Roatan to get emails from my son and daughter, niece and sister and brother in law. The internet tap root survives. Along within the well wishes came also came news of another incident of my Mom's 87 year old struggles with age. Viruses caught in the PI turning into flu that settled in her chest then prolonged dehydration that turned into loss of any appetite and weakness and anxiety to fear. Thankfully my daughter Lisa was there on Maui to get her into the hospital to find out that a PA had subscribed massive amounts of antibiotics for what he thought was pnemonia thus leading to her inability to eat followed by dehydration. A doctor cut her off the excessive medication and my mother finally relented and let my sister know about her weekness and they hopped on a plane and flew over to help take care of her with liquids and coconut water. She's better now. But the age old questions about our mortality and generational passage again comes to the fore and we reacess our present states, review the past and try to see our futures. It's a never ending human process that we put off dealing with as if we had all the time in the world until we know we don't.

I've had some major adjustments to make here in Roatan to the incessant winds,and driving rains followed by stiffling humidity and heat. We go to the other side or end of the island. I've made adjustments to my expectations of reasonable quality and design and lack therof in all that is around me: wrong fixtures for this climate rusting away into corroded hollowness, a rental house with a 2 1/2 gallon water tank, property managers that don't know the first thing about electro mechanical devices and instead depend on local plumbers that also know nothing,
hoards of taxi drivers in identical little white Hyundais that slew about passing on every narrow blind curve and playing "Lets hit side view mirrors." I've adjusted to all these insults but still have to shake my head or wince and gasp up a "Yikes" or "Shit!" It's the best I can do to save this vacation and to try and make it better for JoAnn as well.

Still, I long for Washington state and the possibilioty of ensconcing myself in my wood "boat" shop. Also, there's a May "Pig Roast" to plan for in celebration of our youngest sister's graduation with a Doctorate in April. And I hope to spend a week or two watching over my Mom on Maui if she recovers enough to decide to stay. By then the year will be half over. Time again to plan to be away for winter 2012's approach. There will never be enough time and what time there is per Einstein's Relativity moves toward the speed of light as we come around the last corner. So we continually adjust to the changes that keep coming.

The winds howled again last night followed by driving rains that drenched the floors and furniture around windows we neglected to close. What a wet sticky mess. Adjust Tony, adjust.
I think this will be a pool day.

Friday, March 9, 2012

Becalmed in Roatan

A strange meteorological event happened this morning. There was quiet. The banshee winds left and were replaced by a sudden stillness that left one listening and waiting for something else to happen. We felt becalmed. As if our torturing inquisitor left the room and what remained was a soundless padded cell. Even the birds were momentarily silenced. The trees were dead still and the oceans dimpled but flat. The sea skys were a silver grey and the rising sun a diffused light. This was not going to be good as the heat and humidity crept upwards with no sign of a breeze. What a serving of nature we have, intolerable gale force winds the night before and dead calm in the morning. It has twisted me around and around. Give me a soft Hawaiian breeze laden with plumeria, gardenias and tuberose. This Roatan is a different Atlasntic bird.
It has been two days now of this becalmed situation interspersed with sessions of rain that tend to cool things down a little until they stop then the humidity soars. We've had a couple of power outages in the night which turns all the overhead fans off and skin sticks to all the bedding and our faces to the pillows. And surprise, as in Costa Rica we have a dog here that barks at the same time each morning before Jo is ready to get up. Usually I am already awake so it's just irritating. Dog owners with no control over their barking dogs should be submitted to all sorts of heinious torture.
Today, the trades should return hopefully more moderately. This morning it is quite nice on the deck. However when we went to start the little rental the air conditioning crapped out. There is no way to drive around Roatan in this heat and humidity without AC. It is a primary failing of small 4 cylinder engines with small small compressors. So if you want to be sure your AC doesn't go out on you in the tropics you are better off with a large V8 with its also large compressor. Of course the larger rental car will cost you a lot more. In trying to save money we used these local rent a car agencies who don't seem to have offices but instead meet you in the airport parking lots in the heat and wind and try to conduct business on the hood of your rental. Of course the deposits are hefty and the cars must all be pre paid and they all speak little English. Why is it in the US all phone operators ask you to press one if you would like to converse in Spanish. Down here good luck.

As an example of incompetence. The property manager, an Italian, who has a beautiful home here in Turtle Crossing does not know the difference between a hot water heater and an on demand water heater. This unit has a 2 1/2 gallon hot water tank. Try showering the salt and sand and sweat off with 2 1/2 gallons of water. It runs out in 2 minutes while your head is still in a foamy shampoo helmet. He insisted there are many other on demand heaters of different sizes in this complex. He brought over a local plumber to look at it who obviously did not know anything and could only deduce the tank needs another part to make hot water! Christ it makes hot water, only 2 1/2 friggin gallons of it! "There was a family of 5, and the owners were here several times and they never complained." Funny that's not what the neighbors told us the last family who were here said to them. And would the owners themselves complain about their own ignorance? You know this all my fault really. JoAnn made all the reservations and I just went along with everything she did. I should have participated more and asked the "pesky" questions that car rental agents and vacation rental agents don't want to hear. So I take full blame for the misery they have wrought and tell you it will be different next time. For one thing, no more Central America. Well, Machu Pichu might be nice, then there is Eastern and Southern Argentina. But that's South America and they are different right? But really, enough of this third world stuff. Next I hope it will be an apartment overlooking one of the canals of Venice or the Plazas of renaissance Florence. If I don't get a dose of culture and art and intellectual stimulation I think I will go bonkers. My brains have been beach baked enough.

Seriously I am tempted to stick with the Western Coasts of North America from Big Sur to the SanJuans to Ketchikan. Lots of opportunities of exploration there. And let's not forget our Airstream trip, its hard to beat even the minumum of North American standards. In this we are indeed fortunate.

In the mean time there is nothing definite or positive about weather they can find another rental car for us or if they will send someone to come out to look at the car. Nothing definitive, nothing absolute, no commitments, just swaying in the tropical Central American breeze, maybe si, maybe no.

Man`ana, man`ana
Antonio

That is why I want to build a boat. Once started, it will be so!

I am obviously not hitting the right countries at the right time or with the right frame of mind. I miss the comforts of our house in Washington and the dryness of the moisture. Here the moisture is plaster you wear. I am hoping this is the last third world country I visit.
The sun burning beach thing is vastly overated. To be warm and dry sounds better. I understand the moisturizing effect is good for those skins that benefit from plumping up. I guess I just don't need that.

I am a snowbird. Give me a dry heat!

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Turtle Crossing, West Bay, Roatan

AAfter a fitful nights sleep I awoke as usual at 3:AM to read and await dawn. These damnable winds no small part in my fitful rest. The tree tips are shredded from their violent thrashing to and fro in these awful trades. From our perch on the hillside we are only 200 feet back and 50 feet above the ocean. In this constant wind the waves roll and hollow at a turbulent swell while the crests spume off in caps of white. It is a roiling immensity, a "horizontal violence" from horizon to horizon, from the curvature of the earth to the east to the pale blue shadows of Honduras across and away to the South. An immense caldron of constant motion. Like the winds.

In this elemental intensity, windblown, I have stepped outside on the deck to stare and marvel and anger at this unmindful and uncaring imminence. I am pitifully insignificant by the scale but giant in my outrage of impotence.

Merely 50 feet below me, along the shore the closely spaced roofs of houses almost buried amongst the palm fronds seem to jut out into this sea. In futile bravado they seem to shoulder forward, as waves kill themselves upon the rocks in thunderous walls of liquid lace and drench the seward walls unseen from my vantage. It is all too much. As I watch the roofs appear to roll and surge into the oncoming waves I feel the wooden deck beneath my feet go along for the ride, vibrations amplified by the winds forcing my stance. I understand the tempestuous manners of the sea sailing captains of old needing to pace the decks in the fury of such uncontrolable force.

Finally the heavens begin to lighten as the sun prepares its rise from the eastern sea. Will this event bring a momentary abatement to the wind and the waves ? Of course not. Hope can be blind. But there's always one more song.

A strange respite. This morning I put on my earphones to listen to some iTunes while I read, usually I can not mix the two and need silence to read. But for awhile I did not hear the wind and it was a brief relief.

Today we drove over the ridge and down the west side to the beaches and eateries. Much calmer.
The waters were almost still and of that pearlescent jade blue associated with clear sandy benches beneath the waters. It was not too crowded today as the cruise ships were not in today to disgorge their tens of thousands. So we enjoyed ourselves. However, JoAnn for the twentieth year in a row neglected her sun tan lotion and proceeded to burn herself again despite my yearly admonitions of every tact. This time it was to not use lotion in order to save the reefs from all the bodies oiled up. So she chose the reefs over the real potential of skin cancer after all those years or burns. We make our choices. So now she again suffers lobster red and radiating solar burn and heat.

This evening we checked out a restaurant, Smugglers, down the road and discovered a beautiful isolated cove fronting the place just as that sunburn sun sank. Unfortunately the cove outshown their menu so we motored west again back to Infinity Beach Resort and were surprised by the huge burger we shared, dripping with sauteed onions and mushrooms and a hand packed patty. Always a surprise somewhere. Sometimes its as plebeian as a hamburger. Back home to the wind.

First Night Roatan

Turtle Crossing, a group of perhaps a dozen, identical chalet style homes spread about the hillside facing the ocean to the S.E. The trade winds come from the E.S.E. unhampered and unhindered by any land mass, constant, steady and with house quaking vibration and heavily salt laden. All accompanied by howls and rattling vegetation. How does one shower that salt off with a house that only has a 2 1/2 gallon hot water heater? What am I doing here!
Apparently it is calmer on the West side of the island. Always two sides to every deal, right? This deserves a note about the web site VRBO, Vacation Rentals By Owner. VRBO gets a cut from every owner from the rental income. Thus it is not in their best interest to post any negative reviews or disclosures. They are a huge company and like any corporate structure their secrets are deep and hidden. Several times we have been burnt, twice on this trip, by non disclosures.
There have been a few times when our expectations have been exceeded. Count those on one hand. It has led me to entertain the notion of no more tropical clime trips and to stay home to build wooden boats in my shop. Which will bring with it the craftsmanship, the artistry and the engineering. What could be better.

Do not use VRBO unless you are willing to ask and they are willing to answer straight questions such as: Is the home screened for insects and mosquitos, Is the plumbing in good shape, Is there any corrosion with the plumbing, Is there good flow with the faucets, If gas fired do the stove burners work with enough gas pressure or is the flame yellow instead of blue (sign of low or improper gas pressure which will soot up all the pots and pans, Is the place quiet, Are there any barking dogs or children on the premises, Does the wind howl and blow constantly and with a vengence, is there good and strong internet, Is there telivision and dvd service, is there a radio, Is the house next to the parking lot or a long ways away up a steep hill, how many steps will luggage and groceries have to be lugged?
Now these may seem like picky questions but if you have saved your hard earned money for a vacation of peace, quiet, serenity and maybe healing or are elderly or infirm these things matter.

It may sound as if you are looking for isolation from the world well you should have the option to have it if you wish. This is particularly true if you are staying more than a week where in a week you can just "gut it out." If you are staying for a month or so these intrusions can easily drive you crazy. Especially the absentee owner's loud barking (right outside your windows) dogs. Barking most of the night and all times of the morning from midnight untill dawn will steal your sanity. Again, we were locked in for a month!
Then there's the howling trade winds of Roatan's East side, also constant, 24 hours a day, another receipe for maddness.
Must "buyer beware" govern all aspects of our lives?

We shall see if I can take it here on Roatan for more than a week. These things don't bother JoAnn as much so she might tough it out for the whole month. I don't think I can. The problem is they have our money and our deposits, VRBO, and will make no refunds. Don't you hate being screwed by the white handed money corporaes? They will not even print honest complaints or reviews on their web sites. Thus the scams self perpetuate. I guess there is just no end to the vast pool of suckerss such as ourselves. Ask those pesky questions.

There are places of sublime beuty, moments of memories to hold to tightly in this world. Its a drag to be pessimistic about the human race but how frustrating and impossible it seems when one tries to be accommodating and trust that your trust will be returned only to find our fellow man excercises ulterior motives to your negative end. To give of yourself expecting nothing in return is altruistic and pure but to give and have more than you thought fair and then some taken almost everytime is misplaced martyrdom or sainthood. Beware the money lenders and takers.

The world is just as viscious as it is beautiful. Sad to say, sad to say.......How best to survive, to live daily with grace and happiness.....?

All right, enough of this downer. "They" have taken from me yet again even in my late years of "experience" but tomorrow is a new sunrise and somewhere I will find refuge from these howling winds. Somewhere in the now.

Down to a bare main save for the storm jib on it's third reef,

Tony

Friday, February 24, 2012

Dawns Early Light

Before the dawn arrives there is a restless limbo in one's dreams. Perhaps it has slid into consciousness by the clacking call of a gecko somewhere on the blackness that is the ceiling. You know it is still the time of night before the dawn. The stars and moon are about to cede their hold in the firmament and fade stage center. So begins my favorite hour. The real show is about to begin. It only lasts about 45 minutes but in that time all time measures itself forward in a delicious, excruciating slow dance. It is now semi dark as the sky takes on a faint lightness like the thinest celestial gauze seen only at the edges of your vision. Just enough light exists to shuffle your way to the coffee maachine with care so as to not stub your toes on the furniture formless below your knees. That done you slide outdoors to the deep, teak, adirondack chairs and listen with ears awakened by the quiet. For you are here above the the beach, the Playa, of Camaronel in Costa Rica and where between your perch and the beach there extends more than a mile of valley floor.

Still in darkness all you first pick up are the sounds of night, the ever present distant roar of ocean waves exhausting themselves on the sands as they have since the beginning of time. Then you feel the warmth of the breezes wash over you to the clicking sounds of fronds of the date palm just off the terrace. Holding motionless and quieting your breathing to sharpen all your senses, the other harbingers of dawn space themselves out as if waiting their turn to speak.

The sky is a silver gray now and the first tints of peach hint at upper strata of denser air, clouds. Then across the valley, anchoring the far end of the beach, the headland and its outflowing spine like ridge begin to loom as a muscled mass of shadow. Skies turning silver white outline the bristled fuzz of treeline on the ridge's razor and all vestiges of the night and its stars though unmoved are now unseen. And just above the headland's hogback lie a bilious strata of cloud that will pre-announce the sun and the coming of its warming gifts. Is it any wonder that past civilizations were sun worshipers? It keeps all life alive within such a narrow range of temperature between freezing or boiling to death. Yet here it arrives as it has since the beginning to let us try again to make the best of its warmth.

Now the birds begin their songs, the howler monkeys tentatively clear their throats, even a far off rooster claims his share of the air. And the clouds above the mountain tell us the sun is coming by glowing their undersides with the reflected colors of radioactive oranges and pinks from the orb still unseen. All color intensely reaching their climax as the flaming fire breaks the ridge. It rises slowly and inevitably but you cannot watch it continuously as its power almost lazily climbs. You know you will sooner or later avert your eyes to such blinding force lest you sear your sight forever. Such is the magnitude of the sunrises' messenger. And with it's nuclear flare fully round the clouds now bleach themselves white and the valley floor gives up all its shadows and reveals their thousand shades of green.

You sigh at the wonder of this beginning, this gift of an awakening, of a fresh start and begin to breath more deeply and ponder what does this newness hold in store for us. Let us get busy living. But first that second cup of coffee.

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Keeping Lethargy at bay

When one finally stumbles out of bed here and the sun has already been up for half an hour and you pull the sliding doors apart and step outside to the whooosh of escaping air conditioned coolness slipping out past you from behind, your frontal half is enveloped by heat and humidity. For a moment you think, "Jeeze, perhaps I'll just go back inside, shut the doors to save some of that cool air inside and just stay there!" So you stagger back inside telling yourself, "But wait, I can't just go back to sleep, at least not until high noon when the idea of siesta begins to make sense." So to avoid the spectre of lethargic numbness I'll draw and blog. Saved for the next few hours!

The day before yesterday we were up by 5:30 AM to get ready to head into Samara to meet with Corey up at his subdivision project, to check on the window installation in the model home and to show him another sketch of a condominium tower for lots 5 & 6 combined. The windows were of a high quality buy the false wood grain finish looked false. During the installation into the metal jambs the contractor used impact drills or hammers for the screws and the stucco was spalled in many areas. Corey was not happy. On a brighter note he was very pleased with my building and site concepts even though I had no topo to work with save my recollections of what the grades were doing during my previous two visits. Consequently I could have sited the subterranean garage in a couple of other places. Also I need to work on possible compensation proposals before I do too much more work. Corey has a couple of his supervisors coming over from San Jose next week and would like us to all get together for some wine and possibilities.

After review of the site plan Corey drove us over the hills to another teak farm site that is earmarked for future development and is looking for ideas there as well. We could also look down into the huge valley on the way to Los Vegas (4 buildings). They also want to develop that valley for the local market. Smaller lots at lower prices. That could be trickier to keep it from becoming a blight with pit bulls and fighting cocks. Perhaps a large choice of pre designed modest homes, like a dozen designs might be enough to keep it from looking too shabby.
Reminds of days with the Betsill Brothers on Maui when at one point we had the largest construction budget of all the outer islands with 4-5 subdivisions building 6-8 houses at a time in more than one subdivision at a time. Maui was peaking then. The development crew and permanent work force was 60-80 plus specialty subs. Too much work.

After the hillside visit JoAnn and I stopped in town for a few staples, but by then the heat drove us back to our pad in the hills of Camaronel and AC.

Yesterday began liesurely enough with a plan to head back to Carillo and the deserted beach cove below Villa Playa El Robles up beyond the mango farms. We had it to ourselves the entire morning. It is not a large cove, perhaps only 200' wide and enclosed on two sides by rocky outcrops with a short forest drop from landward. The pleasure was in the very rocky waters that took the full force of the non reef impeeded wave sets sending crashing walls of white skyward. To our surprise we saw our first flights of Pelicans in "V" or straight formations using this bay as part of their fly over pattern. In flight there is no bulbous bill sack hanging down only the long streamlined beak pointing them forward. The wave crash and turbulence, though beautiful to watch in transluscent jades and white, left no swimming places between the rocks. So after an hour and a half of reading, basking, walking, photographing and hydrating (very important here) we pulled up stakes and crept further down the road to look at another private cove but with a swimming spot or two.

Back at the main road, since we were so close to Carrillo Beach we headed there for a swim.
JoAnn is such a confident swimmer,always heading out for the deep water where its cooler and cleaner; Me you will find in the sandy froth and in front of the breaking wave fronts trying to keep my trunks from coming off with each crashing wave! After almost a month here we are beginning to recognise some of the local regulars, always a good feeling.

On the way home we stopped in at the Suenos Tropical for a recommended scratch pizza. It was good but the Canadian bacon in a Hawaiian pizza here is, 1/2" wide, thin and curled, otherwise? There's one more pizza place in Samara we've yet to try but time is running out, only 8 more days in Costa Rica, then its off to Roatan where I expect things to really slow down? Found one little market still open during 1/2 day saturdays, siesta time anyway, for a stick of butter then guick home before it melts. Note to self: Permanent vehicle here should include a small electric cooler for bopping around. I hear VW makes a small twin turbo diesel pick up truck but not available for the US. Back in the US we get almost none of the good diesel stuff.

Gas guage is down to 1/4 so I think we will stay close to home tomorrow and head in for gas on Monday. There is only one station here and it is over $5.00/gal.
As I said at the beginning, tomorrow, Sunday, will be a day of rest: sketching, blogging, eating, pooling, showering, sucking AC and maybe a late afternoon walk down a grassy 4 wheel trail to the beach?

Vaya con Dios, hasta la vista, Oh Cisco, Oh Pancho, Oh Leo G.Carrillo !!
Antonio e Josepha Anna

Friday, February 17, 2012

Crescent Moon Rocking

It's another perfect morning. Last night I watched the new crescent moon climb upwards on its sickle back. The stars down here in this southern sky seem so foreign or out of place to me telling me I need to learn why. It's not even a warm breeze this morning, more like air moving around and about you that you can feel but yet are not sure as its temperature matches your skin.

Yesterday JoAnn and I woke before dawn to make the 15 minute drive north to Playa Carrillo to watch the sun rise and that I might take some photos of the dense coconut lined shore in the morning rays. There were already a few people walking the beach in the dim light. I think people here in Costa Rica tend to be more naturally health conscious. As a country newly rising from third world status they benefit from the lack of fast food saturation.
After JoAnn walked the 2.5 kilometer beach from the south end and I photographed the north end
we met up and declared if we lived on a beach like this on mornings such as these then perhaps we could live longer in Costa Rica. We will never be able to leave for long our Pacific Northwest with its spring and summer. We enjoy JoAnn's flowering gardens too much as well as the natural wonders of the region. Yet this weather, this beach ......

After a morning of skipping away from the advancing surf's froth we headed up some back roads, dirt of course, up into the hills above Carrillo's own headland to look for the immense mango
orchards as seen on Google! We found them. Massive dense green trees on rolling hillocks. We also came across an isolated architectural delight above the waterfront's rocky coves. Villas Playa el Roble. Behind a trim yet substantial layered granite half wall topped with fine and delicate wrought iron fencing sat a pristine white structure in the Colonial style with all the right detailing. From the real clay tile roof (much of CR now affects plastic tile roofing) to the profiled window and door trims sharply expressed and the delicate railinged balcony above the front door and the short eaves with supporting volutes every three feet all in a cohesive, tropical/colonial design with glazed stone fore court and side yard trellised private areas. Once in awhile each trip we come accross architectural work where someone's vision and craftsmanship stand out and it does my heart good.

After the morning's exploration we went for breakfast at Leylande's hotel and restaurant along the road back home. Quality was very good and fresh hot coffee individually brewed per customer. On the way out through the grounds JoAnn discovered a palapa with a pool table so why not. Then it was back home early enough for a swim and a nap. Good day. Tomorrow its up again at 6:AM to drive back in town for a meeting with Corey at 7:30 to show him my site plan and to look at more hilltop properties. It should be another interesting day.

Hasta la vista